Embroidery Ideas How the patterns are made
Split stitch on cotton: straight rows, waves, a circle and a spiral
Split stitch, generated from the same geometry as the practice sheet

Embroidery stitches / Split stitch

Split stitch

Split stitch makes a fine, solid line that looks almost like a chain. Make one stitch along the line, then bring the needle up through the middle of that stitch, splitting its strands, and make the next stitch the same length. Use an even number of strands so the needle can split them cleanly, and aim for 4 mm (5/32 in) stitches.

  • Beginner
  • Line stitch
  • 4 mm stitches

Free practice sheet

Straight lines, curves, a circle and a spiral, with a dot every 2 mm

Print at "Actual size" (100%), then check that the scale bar measures 5 cm, so the marks are true to size. Trace the lines onto fabric. Each stitch spans two dots (4 mm); come up through the stitch at the dot in between.

In real thread

Detail of a 7th-century silk embroidery: a bird and a curled motif outlined and filled with rows of split stitch
Split stitch in the 7th century: a detail of Textile with Boar’s Head Roundels (Iran, Afghanistan or China), which the Met lists as silk split-stitch embroidery on silk. Rows of split stitch both outline and fill each shape. Photo: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, via The Met Open Access, CC0, cropped.

Before you start

  • Needle: an embroidery (crewel) needle, size 7 to 9 for two or three strands. Its long eye takes floss easily.
  • Strands: six-strand floss comes as six thin threads twisted together. Cut about 45 cm (18 in), pull out the strands you need one at a time, then lay them back together.
  • Starting: for the first thread, tie a small knot at the end and come up from the back. For line stitches, a waste knot is neater: knot the end, go down on the front about 5 cm (2 in) away along your line, stitch toward it so your stitches cover the tail on the back, then cut the knot off.
  • Finishing: on the back, slide the needle under three or four stitches, then trim. Once there are stitches on the back, start each new thread by sliding it under them too, without a knot.

Step by step

  1. Split stitch, step 1: Bring the needle up at 1 and go down at 2, one stitch length along the line.

    Bring the needle up at 1 and go down at 2, one stitch length along the line.

  2. Split stitch, step 2: Come up at 3 through the middle of the first stitch, splitting its strands in half, and go down at 4, one stitch length on.

    Come up at 3 through the middle of the first stitch, splitting its strands in half, and go down at 4, one stitch length on.

  3. Split stitch, step 3: Come up at 5 through the middle of the second stitch and go down at 6.

    Come up at 5 through the middle of the second stitch and go down at 6.

  4. Split stitch, step 4: Repeat to the end of the line. Each stitch starts inside the one before, so the line has no gaps.

    Repeat to the end of the line. Each stitch starts inside the one before, so the line has no gaps.

Filled dot: the needle comes up. Ring: the needle goes down. Arrow: the way the thread lies on the front.

Front and back

Split stitch, front and back of the same stitches

Split stitch moves like stem stitch, so its back is the same: short stitches end to end, like backstitch.

The back is drawn as if seen through the cloth, so its holes line up with the front.

Tips

  • Use two or four strands of floss: with an even number, the needle splits them evenly.
  • Stitches of about 4 mm (5/32 in) are easy to split; shorten them on curves.
  • Come up exactly in the middle of the previous stitch, from the back. If you keep missing, look from the front and nudge the needle point between the strands.
  • Split stitch also makes a good outline under satin stitch: it gives the satin a crisp, raised edge.

Common mistakes

  • A line that looks like backstitch: the needle came up beside the stitch, not through it.
  • Lopsided splits: an odd number of strands, or the needle came up off centre.
  • Fuzzy floss: very short stitches split the same strands over and over. Keep stitches long enough to split once.

Patterns to use it on

Embroidery letters
A fine alternative to backstitch for small names: same traced line, smoother look.
Satin stitch
Outline a shape in split stitch first, then cover it with satin stitch.

Questions

What is the difference between split stitch and split backstitch?
Split stitch splits the previous stitch from underneath, coming up through it. Split backstitch goes back down through it from the top.
How many strands for split stitch?
Two for fine lines and lettering, four for a bolder line. Avoid one or three.
Is split stitch hard?
The only tricky part is hitting the middle of the previous stitch from the back. It gets easy after a few centimetres.

More stitches

Sources

Updated