Embroidery Ideas How the patterns are made
Backstitch on cotton: straight rows, waves, a circle and a spiral
Backstitch, generated from the same geometry as the practice sheet

Embroidery stitches / Backstitch

Backstitch

Backstitch makes a solid line out of short stitches that share holes. Come up one stitch length from the start of the line, go back down at the start, then come up one stitch length ahead and go down into the end of the last stitch. Keep stitches about 3 mm (1/8 in) on straight lines and 2 mm (a little over 1/16 in) on curves.

  • Beginner
  • Line stitch
  • 3 mm stitches

Free practice sheet

Straight lines, curves, a circle and a spiral, with a dot at every needle hole

Print at "Actual size" (100%), then check that the scale bar measures 5 cm, so the marks are true to size. Trace the lines onto fabric and stitch from dot to dot, going back into the previous dot each time.

In real thread

A line of backstitch in white floss on yellow cotton
A line of backstitch: each stitch shares a hole with the next. Photo: Most Craft (mostcraft.com), via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0, cropped.

Before you start

  • Needle: an embroidery (crewel) needle, size 7 to 9 for two or three strands. Its long eye takes floss easily.
  • Strands: six-strand floss comes as six thin threads twisted together. Cut about 45 cm (18 in), pull out the strands you need one at a time, then lay them back together.
  • Starting: for the first thread, tie a small knot at the end and come up from the back. For line stitches, a waste knot is neater: knot the end, go down on the front about 5 cm (2 in) away along your line, stitch toward it so your stitches cover the tail on the back, then cut the knot off.
  • Finishing: on the back, slide the needle under three or four stitches, then trim. Once there are stitches on the back, start each new thread by sliding it under them too, without a knot.

Step by step

  1. Backstitch, step 1: Bring the needle up at 1, one stitch length along the line. Go down at 2, the start of the line: the needle travels backwards.

    Bring the needle up at 1, one stitch length along the line. Go down at 2, the start of the line: the needle travels backwards.

  2. Backstitch, step 2: Come up at 3, one stitch length ahead of the first stitch. Go down at 4, into the same hole as 1, so the two stitches touch.

    Come up at 3, one stitch length ahead of the first stitch. Go down at 4, into the same hole as 1, so the two stitches touch.

  3. Backstitch, step 3: Come up at 5, one more stitch length ahead, and go down at 6, the end of the last stitch.

    Come up at 5, one more stitch length ahead, and go down at 6, the end of the last stitch.

  4. Backstitch, step 4: Repeat. Every new stitch goes back into the hole of the one before, which gives an unbroken line.

    Repeat. Every new stitch goes back into the hole of the one before, which gives an unbroken line.

Filled dot: the needle comes up. Ring: the needle goes down. Arrow: the way the thread lies on the front.

Front and back

Backstitch, front and back of the same stitches

Each stitch goes back one length on the front and forward two lengths underneath, so the back is a row of long, overlapping stitches that looks like stem stitch. That is why backstitch takes about three times the line’s length in floss, and why it is so strong.

The back is drawn as if seen through the cloth, so its holes line up with the front.

Tips

  • Even stitches are what make backstitch look neat: about 3 mm (1/8 in) on straight lines.
  • Shorten stitches to about 2 mm (a little over 1/16 in) around curves and in small letters, so the line stays round.
  • Go down exactly into the previous hole. A gap shows; overlapping makes a lump.
  • Two strands of six-strand floss is a good start for lettering; three for a bolder outline.

Common mistakes

  • Gaps between stitches: the needle went down short of the previous hole.
  • Corners that round off: end a stitch exactly on the corner point and start the next stitch from it.
  • A thick, lumpy back: knot only the first thread. Once there are stitches on the back, start and end every thread by sliding it under them.

Patterns to use it on

Embroidery letters
Every name and alphabet template is laid out for backstitch, with stitch counts.

Questions

Is backstitch the same as stem stitch?
No. Backstitch lies flat and the stitches meet end to end. Stem stitch overlaps each stitch with the next, which twists the line into a rope.
How many strands of floss for backstitch lettering?
Two strands for small or script letters, three for larger, bolder letters.
Why does my backstitch look jagged on curves?
The stitches are too long for the curve. Shorten them to about 2 mm (a little over 1/16 in) so each one follows the line.

More stitches

Sources

Updated